TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL POND

DESIGN
The ideal location for a pond is in the shade, as it helps keep algae under control and the temperature stable during the summer months. Pumps and filters should be placed such that a circular flow is created. If using a submersible pump, place it a one end of the pond and place the filter at the opposite end. This will allow for maximum flow and cleanliness. Ideal depth for a koi pond is three feet, however, a water garden does fine at two feet. If using concrete, be sure to properly cure and seal it because lime from mortar or concrete can be fatal to fish and plant life.

FILTRATION
Mechanical Filtration such as a foam pad will remove fish waste, uneaten food, and other particles. Remove these particles and other items regularly to help maintain good water quality.

Biological Filtration removes dissolved toxins produced by the fish. These toxins include ammonia, nitrite, and phosphates. Beneficial bacteria grow on the filter media and convert these toxins into harmless by-products. This part of the filtration process makes the water safe for fish and under the right conditions (i.e. shade) will help control algae growth. Biofilter media such as bioballs or lava rock should never be taken out and scrubbed down because this will kill the beneficial bacteria that are needed for a healthy pond. If you must clean this media, it is recommended that it be done before the season starts so that the growth of the bacteria will not be interrupted.

Ultraviolet Filtration or sterilization will eliminate green water caused by algae. While green water is not necessarily unhealthy for the fish, it is unsightly. UV sterilization also helps with parasite control and when added to an established biological filter, it will help balance the pond more quickly. It should not be the only means of filtration.

FISH POPULATION
In a new pond, fish should be added slowly so the biological filter has adequate time to become established. The beneficial bacteria grow slowly, so if too many fish are added too quickly, there will not be enough bacteria to break down the fish waste and consequently the fish can be poisoned to death. It is recommended that in a brand new pond, "test" fish be purchased in order to help build up the biological filter slowly. Also, adding too many fish at once will contribute to algae blooms due to excessive nutrients in the water. Prior to adding fish to a new pond, a chlorine and chloramine remover should be added to the water. Tap water contains chlorine and chloramines that are toxic to fish. Chlorine will dissipate but chloramines will not so it is very important to remove them before adding fish.

ULTRAVIOLET STERILIZATION SIMPLIFIED
Ultraviolet sterilizers, or clarifiers, are a safe, effective and proven method of water disinfection that can be easily adapted to any size pond. The use of the proper size unit kills parasites before they can cause disease. Exposure to ultraviolet light eliminates any free-floating bacteria, fungi, mold spores, viruses, and parasites by preventing replication. The bacteria Aeromonas Hydrophila is very common in ponds. There are at least nine species of bacteria in this family that can be very harmful if left untreated. It will spread throughout a pond and can kill all of the fish. Aeromonas bacteria are responsible for those unsightly and deadly ulcers on fish. Constant exposure to ultraviolet light will eliminate these bacteria.
UV sterilization uses a small, germicidal bulb that is placed in a pipe to allow water to pass all around it. For proper disinfection, UV-C and UV-B wavelengths are needed. This technique will result in an almost complete reduction of green water when used properly. A UV sterilizer should not be the only means of filtration on your pond. A biological filter still must break down dead algae.

WATER QUALITY - ALKALINITY
Alkalinity is a measure of the buffering capacity (bicarbonate concentration) of water. It works to keep the pH level from rising or falling drastically. Ideally the alkalinity in pond water should be between 80ppm - 120ppm. If it drops below 80ppm, then that is a good indicator that the pH level will drop, or possibly crash, within a week to 10 days. Larger fish loads and warmer water lower the alkalinity (an pH) faster.

If the alkalinity goes too low, or "crashes", fish can die within a matter of hours. Symptoms include lethargy, sitting on the bottom and excess production of slime. To combat this, a pH RESCUE KIT is recommended. Raise the pH to a safe level between 6.8 and 7.8 using sodium bicarbonate and check the level with the WARDLEY PH TEST KIT. JUNGLE POND STRIPS will acurately measure the alkalinity in the water.

WATER QUALITY - AMMONIA
Ammonia is the primary waste product of fish, as well as the first ingredient needed in the Nitrogen cycle. Fish produce ammonia, which then converts to nitrite and then nitrate. In a new fish pond, ammonia levels will spike within a few weeks, and it should then convert to nitrite and then nitrate through good, adequate biological filtration. MICROBE-LIFT PL can be used to jump start the nitrogen cycle and help reduce toxic ammonia levels quicker.

In an establised system, ammonia levels will spike when the system has a fish load too large for the filtration system to handle or when there are a lot of decaying organics (leaves, food) left on the bottom to rot. Frequent water changes, MICROBE-LIFT PL, AMMO-LOCK and patience will help bring down high ammonia levels. Chronic exposure to higher than normal ammonia levels is detrimental to fish and must be taken care of immediately.

WATER QUALITY - NITRATE
Nitrate is the third stage in the Nitrogen cycle. Fish produce ammonia, which then converts to nitrite and then nitrate via Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria. In a new fish pond, nitrate levels will spike within a month or two, and they should then subside through good, adequate biological filtration. MICROBE-LIFT PL can be used to jump start the nitrogen cycle and help reduce toxic nitrate levels quicker.

In an establised system, nitrate levels will spike when the system has a fish load too large for the filtration system to handle or when there are a lot of decaying organics (leaves, food) left on the bottom to rot. Frequent water changes, MICROBE-LIFT PL, and GOOD PLANT COVERAGE will help bring down high nitrate levels. Plants and velvet algae absorb nitrates. Chronic exposure to higher than normal nitrate levels is detrimental to fish and must be taken care of immediately. Fish will be lethargic and have reddened fins.

WATER QUALITY - NITRITE
Nitrite is the second stage in the Nitrogen cycle. Fish produce ammonia, which then converts to nitrite and then nitrate via Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria. In a new fish pond, nitrite levels will spike within a month or two, and it should then convert to nitrate through good, adequate biological filtration. MICROBE-LIFT PL can be used to jump start the nitrogen cycle and help reduce toxic nitrite levels quicker.

In an establised system, nitrite levels will spike when the system has a fish load too large for the filtration system to handle or when there are a lot of decaying organics (leaves, food) left on the bottom to rot. Frequent water changes, MICROBE-LIFT PL, NON-IODIZED POND SALT and patience will help bring down high nitrite levels. Chronic exposure to higher than normal nitrite levels is detrimental to fish and must be taken care of immediately. Fish will be lethargic and have reddened fins.

WATER QUALITY - PH
pH is a measure of the acidity and alkalinity in the water. It is measured on a scale from 1 to 14, however, a measurement between 6.0 and 8.5 is required to support aquatic life. pH must be maintained between these levels or fish death can result.

If the pH goes too low, or "crashes", fish can die within a matter of hours. Symptoms include lethargy, sitting on the bottom and excess production of slime. To combat this, a pH RESCUE KIT is recommended. Raise the pH to a safe level between 6.8 and 7.8 using sodium bicarbonate and check the level with the WARDLEY PH TEST KIT. Detailed instructions are included in the kit.

If the pH is too high, it can be deadly ONLY IF the AMMONIA is HIGH. Ammonia is more toxic at a high pH. If this is the case, lower the pH with PH DOWN or lower the ammonia with AMMO LOCK.

SALT - IT'S BENEFITS AND USES
At the recommended levels, NON-IODIZED salt will significantly reduce parasitic problems, stress on fish, and is excellent for the removal of string algae. ONLY NON-IODIZED SALT SHOULD BE USED IN PONDS WITH FISH. Salt promotes a healthy slime coat. This aids the fish in fighting off parasites and bacterial infections. The chlorides in salt enable the fish to better handle the stress involved in their handling, and especially helps when fish are introduced into a new environment. Salt will NOT harm your filter, and there is a large margin of error when dosing it. You would have to nearly double the recommended amount before it would do harm to koi or goldfish. The recommended level of salt is 0.3%, a dosage of 1 POUND per 40 GALLONS or 3 POUNDS per 100 GALLONS.

The biggest drawback to using salt is its effects on plants. As mentioned above, it will kill string algae. This is an excellent way to get rid of this type of algae. However, once the algae dies, it is imperative that it be removed from the pond either through the filter or by hand. Dead algae will rapidly decrease the quality of the water. Should you choose to remove string algae by using salt, provide extra aeration for the fish. Its effects on other plants are similar. Lilies, common Papyrus, and Irises are usually not bothered by a 0.3% solution. It will, however, kill hyacinths, lettuce, anacharis, duckweed, and other sensitive plants. It is best to remove any plants before you salt the pond and replace them once the salt has been diluted. Salt only becomes diluted by performing water changes. It will remain in the water for good unless gradual water changes are performed.

The level of salt in your pond may be measured with a POND CARE SALT TEST KIT available at our store. It is easy to use, extremely accurate, and inexpensive. It takes around five minutes to complete and will give you the percentage of salt in your pond. It is especially useful after water changes have been done so you will know the concentration of salt still in the pond. It gives instructions on how much salt to add to achieve the desired level.

PLANT CARE
The same principals apply to water gardening that applies to conventional gardening. You will need aquatic potting soil, aquatic plant fertilizer, a few tools, and of course plants. Water plants are potted in the same way as you would pot your perennials or annuals with the only difference being placing rocks on the surface. This will make it difficult for the fish to root out the plant. Lava rock works well as it seems the coarseness of the stone deters the fish from even attempting to root. Try it. You will like it and the fish will not. The added bonus to water gardening is the volume of plants you will be dividing at the end of the year. You will be trading and sharing with your friends. So the initial investment will pay off after the first year.

Highly recommended plants for water gardening beginners include: Hyacinths, Water lettuce, Water celery, Lotus, Cat tails, Papyrus, Water clover, Lilies, and Water iris. These are fairly low-maintenance plants and are hardy in our area (with the exception of hyacinths and lettuce). Among this list, HYACINTHS, LILIES, IRIS and CAT TAILS are salt tolerant up to 0.3%.

For all HARDY aquatic plants, they can be over-wintered in the pond itself. The foliage should be cut off at the top of the pot and the entire pot should be dropped to the deepest part of the pond. Around mid-March or the beginning of April, raise the plant back to its normal summer level and fertilize it with 2 aquatic fertilizer tabs.

For all TROPICAL aquatic plants (excluding hyacinths and lettuce), they would be best over-wintered inside a garage or basement. Cut off the foliage to the top of the pot and leave the plant in a bucket of water and let it go dormant. Around mid-March or the beginning of April, take the plant back outside to the pond, place it at summer pool and fertilize it with 2 aquatic fertilizer tabs.

HOW TO CONTROL GREEN WATER
Green water, or "pea soup" as it is commonly referred to, is caused by millions of microscopic algae plants growing in the water. This can be controlled by using chemicals or by using aquatic plants to shade up to 60% of the pond's surface to reduce the amount of sunlight it receives. Lilies, water hyacinths, water lettuce, duckweed or any other floating plants with fibrous roots work very well. They shade the pond and they also absorb nutrients through those fibrous roots.

Chemical control usually means using algaecides, or chemicals that kill all types of algae to a greater or lesser degree. These chemicals may contain copper sulfate, which will harm any pond plants that you may have. The more common form of this chemical is sold as POND BLOCK. Care must be taken as a massive algae die-off will negatively affect the quality of your water. If dead algae sits at the bottom of the pond for any length of time, it will create an ammonia spike which can kill your fish. Algaecides may be used before your water turns "pea soup" green, however, successive treatments may be necessary.

If you are experiencing the common "pea soup" aglae, use algaecides such as ALGAEFIX with a combination of ECOFIX or SIMPLY CLEAR. ALGAEFIX will kill the algae and the other products will break down the dead algae so as to not cause an ammonia spike. ALGAEFIX is dosed at the rate of 1 TEASPOON per 50 GALLONS or 1/4 CUP per 600 GALLONS and may be used as frequently as ONCE every 3 days. Do not worry if you see a velvety layer of algae growing on the sides of your pond. This is the sign of a healthy and balanced pond. The algae and bacteria on the walls also act as a biofilter.

Ultraviolet Clarifiers will effectively eliminate green water as well. Not only will they clear up the water, they will protect your fish from many common parasites. An ultraviolet clarifier will also help speed up the balance of the pond.

RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS TO CONTROL GREEN WATER:
ALGAE FIX
ECO FIX
SIMPLY CLEAR
POND BLOCK (for ponds without plants)
AQUATIC PLANTS
GREENEX (SAVIO)

CONTROL OF STRING ALGAE
String algae, or blanketweed as it is commonly referred to, is caused by millions of microscopic algae spores. It differs from the beneficial "velvet" algae in that it becomes very long and unsightly. It can be controlled by using chemicals or by using aquatic plants to shade up to 60% of the pond's surface to reduce the amount of sunlight it receives. Lilies, water hyacinths, water lettuce, duckweed or any other floating plants with fibrous roots work very well. They shade the pond and they also absorb nutrients through those fibrous roots.

Chemical control usually means using algaecides, or chemicals that kill all types of algae to a greater or lesser degree. These chemicals may contain copper sulfate, which will harm any pond plants that you may have. The more common form of this chemical is sold as POND BLOCK. Care must be taken as a massive algae die-off will negatively affect the quality of your water. If dead algae sits at the bottom of the pond for any length of time, it will create an ammonia spike which can kill your fish. Algaecides may be used before string algae begins to grow, however, successive treatments may be necessary.

If you are experiencing string algae, use algaecides such as ALGAEFIX with a combination of ECOFIX or SIMPLY CLEAR. ALGAEFIX will kill the algae and the other products will break down the dead algae so as to not cause an ammonia spike. ALGAEFIX is dosed at the rate of 1 TEASPOON per 50 GALLONS or 1/4 CUP per 600 GALLONS and may be used as frequently as ONCE every 3 days. Do not worry if you see a velvety layer of algae growing on the sides of your pond. This is the sign of a healthy and balanced pond. The algae and bacteria on the walls also act as a biofilter. Heavy string algae on the waterfall area may be controlled by ALGAE-OFF or GREENEX by Savio. Both are completely SAFE for fish and plant life.

Ultraviolet Clarifiers will NOT eliminate string algae. Since string algae is attached to the pond sides and waterfall, it does NOT pass through the UV chamber and therefore will NOT be eliminated.

RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS TO CONTROL GREEN WATER:
ALGAE FIX
ALGAE OFF
GREENEX by SAVIO
ECO FIX or SIMPLY CLEAR